Simone Rocha Reconsiders Its Signatures For Spring/Summer 2027

In Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 show notes, the designer includes a quote: “I’m trying to love you.” There’s not much trying involved when it comes to the collection itself, especially if you’re already a fan of Rocha. Packed with dreamy, re-energized versions of brand signatures like floral-embroidered satin bra-and-skirt sets, baby pink camisole slips re-imagined into sleeveless midi dresses, and high-femme-meets-gorpcore windbreakers, the Irish creative’s latest presentation offers her existing customer varying iterations of the pieces they’ve likely already purchased, this time in “less obvious” fashions, according to show notes.

“Little acts of kindness. Clothes touch, hug, hold. Not narrative, rather experiences. Expressions of intimacy, through clothes,” read the show’s press release. “Like something organic, beading crumbles and falls away, as if long beloved. Lingerie touches — déshabillé, négligée, clothes either peeling away from the body, or clutched too close. Sweaters, dresses, knits twist, shaped by a life within.”

Indeed, this latest runway was, in many ways, built far more for wearability than Rocha’s past, all while still maintaining a sense of fantasy. There were just as many micro shorts (or more-so glorified underwear) than usual, though, but more logistically-sound garments — like above-the-knee bloomers under mesh skirts and cozy oversized knits — came into play, positioning this collection as an everyday wardrobe for the modern woman.

This was further demonstrated by simple button-up dress shirts made livelier by a lilac cotton and crystal firework-like arm cuffs holding up each sleeve, proving that even the traditionally mundane can become something celebratory. Crumpled taffeta ballgown skirts layered upon each other made for a thrilling counterpart to the minimalist blouse, while zip-up tech jackets with exaggerated rosette-adorned collars beg to be put to work in the forthcoming London and New York spring breeze.

Although each look is fabulous in its own right, it’s really not about the clothing itself, according to Rocha, but instead about each person beneath the fabric — hence the more practical pieces. “Shifting, reconsidering...hoods make portraits of the face, growing into garments and dresses that frame each wearer,” continued the release. “Old masters, in your everyday. Embroidered bodies, embroidered face, velvet lips. A pure and unapologetic celebration, of the beautiful.”

There were, of course, still plenty of formal, red carpet-ready ensembles to take in, such as a rich blue velvet calf-length dress with a deep U-shaped neckline covered in the same three-dimensional roses as the outerwear. That same material appears in a babydoll boatneck mini dress — an option for the fashionable cocktail party frequenters.

The striking color isn’t a random pull for the designer, either. Rocha calls it “Caravaggio blue” in the release, pulling inspiration from one of the artist’s most famous paintings: “Caravaggio’s masterpiece, The Taking of Christ, was famously ‘found’ in Dublin, Ireland hanging in a dining room, discovered in 1990,” the designer wrote in her show notes. “Now residing on indefinite loan at the National Gallery of Ireland. Making the most beautiful thing in an unexpected place.” The Taking of Christ shows Jesus being arrested by three soldiers while draped in a blue fabric similar to the one Rocha employed.

Other standout hues in the collection are less direct, such as fiery reds, stark whites, varying shades of nature-esque greens, and soft grays — all constants within the Rocha color palette.

Below, see more highlights from Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 show.