5 Emerging Jewelry Brands to Bookmark For 2024

Investing in an emerging jewelry designer implies a certain sense of know-how. Much like buying a painting from a bourgeoning artist, it requires a noted level of confidence in your personal taste to eschew the heritage labels in favor of an up-and-coming name. Thankfully, there’s never been a better time to be in the market for a new piece of jewelry from such a fresh face. With exciting brands cropping up on a regular basis, finding a necklace or pair of earrings (or ring!) that aligns with your personal style is as effortless as a quick scroll through instagram.

But what deems a brand as ‘emerging’? A strong point of view is a great place to start, leaning on storytelling and an inventive use of materials as business pillars. Take Cece Jewellery, who translated a serendipitous visit to one of London’s most iconic museums into inspiration for an entire collection of enamel signet rings and pendants. (More on that ahead.) Or Donnie Soddu’s High Light Rituals, which turns to numerology, sacred geometry, and other spiritual symbols to inform her collection’s ethereal design.

Ahead, TZR highlights five emerging jewelry designers — each with their own distinct aesthetic — that are making stylish waves in the industry. Continue to hear how they built their businesses and discover beautifully-crafted pieces to adorn yourself with.

Camille Beinhorn Jewelry

Designer Camille Beinhorn grew up in South East Asia and has since lived across several continents, attributing her appreciation for varying ornamentation styles to this global exposure. She also spent several years learning ancient handmade jewelry techniques — such as chain weaving — prior to founding her business, which now serves as a source of inspiration. Her collection marries old world craftsmanship with contemporary adornment, with pieces incorporating striking stones such as sapphires and spinels. “I source my gemstones from all over the world and often travel directly to mining locations and trading towns in places like Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam,” she tells TZR. When it comes to specific stones that feel at home in her brand, Beinhorn notes she gravitates toward those “that have interesting optical phenomena; something that a connoisseur would appreciate.”

High Light Rituals

A fine jewelry brand that bills itself as being rooted in magic and meaning, High Light Rituals is a mother-led, Black-owned company founded by Donnie Soddu. “I started sowing the seeds around 2019 during a moment of inner upheaval and regeneration,” she tells TZR, adding that she had lost touch with her spirituality and began the brand as a personal project for her own healing. Now, Soddu is a certified crystal healer and Usui Reiki Master and infuses these insights into her collection. The edit is a delicate mix of ‘mystic heirlooms,’ ‘sacred layers,’ and ‘spell bracelets’ that Soddu uses as a vehicle to lift others up. Take the Garden Pendant (her very first piece), for example. “My intention was to create a talisman for someone’s personal journey of growth and transformation,” she says. “It features Clear Quartz for healing high-vibration energy, the dogwood flower for resilience and regeneration, and circles to symbolize the seasons of life.”

YSSO

Mother-daughter duo, Alexia and Stalo Karides founded YSSO in 2020 as an homage to Greek craftsmanship. “Before launching, I was working as a corporate lawyer in the city and my mother, an archaeologist, had a long-standing interest and knowledge in the history of art and jewelry design,” Alexia tells TZR. The brand name is derived from the Greek word for gold, chrysso, and together the two share tap into their Greek heritage to handcraft their line of sculptural pieces. YSSO began with all gold, but recently launched silver in their best-selling designs. “We are constantly inspired by the natural world around us,” Alexia notes, adding their creative process begins as a drawing in a notebook, eventually carving designs by hand and then providing a mock-up to their workshop to bring it to life.

Cece Jewellery

Stemming from a stroll through the V&A, Cece Fein Hughes founded her namesake jewelry brand that leans on Champlevé enamel on 18ct gold signet rings and pendants. “On one such visit, I found a renaissance gold band that was crafted in France and enameled with pink-and-white flowers,” she tells TZR. That was the spark. “Inspiration bloomed. Engraved with declarations of love, the fusion of beauty and meaning took my breath away.” Each piece is crafted by hand in London, including her bespoke service which begins with a personal consultation. “Listening to their dreams and stories, I propose a choice of designs, sketching out their ideas to help visualize the piece,” she says. As for what’s on the horizon? Brides-to-be should take note. “We're excited to say we will be launching an engagement ring collection in October, promising to capture the most epic love stories in history in these mega pieces.”

Vesper Obscura

Mia Vesper had been designing ready-to-wear before deciding to transition her eponymous label to VESBER OBSCURA. “I rebranded recently because I wanted the name to match the wares, which are jewelry and clothes made from wonders and obscurities sourced from around the world,” she tells TZR. Many of her jewelry pieces are glass, like the layering chokers that are made in Germany from headstock ‘50s and ‘60s glass stone. Or the new semi-precious stones she’s working with, like tiger eye, citrine, peridot, and onyx (most of which are sourced in India). “I love gems because rarity and price has nothing to do with the beauty for me; a clear diamond is less beautiful than a faceted hunk of Prasiolite,” she says, adding she feels the same way about glass. "I am so much more concerned with aesthetic than I am with what is perceived to be ‘precious’ in the jewelry world.” The designer was nominated for 2024’s Fashion Trust Award in Jewelry.