I Got A New Type Of Lip Filler — And I’m In Love With My Cupid’s Bow

Standing Appointment is our review series that investigates the best new and notable cosmetic treatments in the aesthetics space and determines whether or not they are worth trying for yourself. This week, one writer reports back on getting Evolysse filler in her lips.

In the Baroque period, lips were meant to convey heightened emotion, psychological intrigue, and spiritual agony or ecstasy. As a fan of this period, I, too, am drawn to the lips and how they're more than the pout on my face. They speak my truths and kiss my daughter’s forehead, and they help me feel cute when the only makeup I have time for in the morning is a coat of my favorite pink lipstick. But when it comes to their natural shape, I’ve always felt my lips were too thin. I don’t have as defined a Cupid’s bow as I’d like, but I’ve always been adamant: Lip filler is not for me. Pillowy, doughy lips work on some people, but I always thought it would overwhelm my small-featured face. Then I heard about a new hyaluronic acid (HA) dermal filler, Evolysse, that’s meant to be more natural-looking because it integrates more easily with the body’s own hyaluronic acid. True, I was apprehensive about getting filler, but I did my research, and in the end, my desire for plumper, more defined lips overcame my fear.

If you’re as hesitant to try lip filler as I was, keep reading as I detail my injection experience, healing time, and the final results.

What Is Evolysse Dermal Filler?

Evolysse is an HA dermal filler that is Food and Drug Administration approved to be injected into the skin to smooth out wrinkles between the nose, corners of the mouth, and nasolabial folds. “HA is the ‘gold standard’ for dermal fillers,” says Dr. Rui Avelar, M.D., Evolus chief medical officer and head of R&D. (Evolus is the parent company of Evolysse.) HA, a powerful humectant that draws moisture into the skin to create a plumped up look, is naturally found in the body. That means our anatomy easily recognizes it, decreasing the risk of allergic reactions. The one caveat: HA is sensitive to heat used in the traditional manufacturing approaches for dermal fillers. This is problematic because heat can break down HA, causing it to break apart and migrate, creating a bumpy-lumpy look, which is something I definitely did not want happening on my face.

But Evolysse is a different type of HA filler, made using a manufacturing process Avelar tells me is called Cold-X Technology. This process, he says, “uses near-freezing temperatures aimed at preserving the natural structure of the HA molecule.” Essentially, the cold processing of the formula maintains integrity of the HA chains, preventing it from breaking down and migrating. There are two types of Evolysse available, and the one your provider uses will depend on your severity of the wrinkles and folds in the area being treated. Evolysse Form is “designed for deeper wrinkles and folds that require more lift under the skin to smooth the folds,” explains Avelar. Then there’s Evolysse Smooth, which he notes is more supple than Form and “well-suited for areas that require more flexibility, when the wrinkles and folds are not as prominent and require a subtle touch.”

What Are Potential Risks Or Side Effects?

Bruising and swelling are both potential side effects, depending on many things, including the amount of filler you get and the size of your mouth, according to Dr. Marie Hayag, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in advanced aesthetics treatments and is an assistant clinical professor at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. She was also the medical injector who performed my treatment at her medical spa, Fabrx Studio. When it comes to potential risks, she cautions patients against massaging the area or kissing for two weeks to prevent migration during the critical healing period.

Also, as Hayag points out, because injections place a foreign material into your skin, “it is necessary to decrease any chance of infection or granulomas from forming by making sure the skin is properly cleansed and disinfected.” To this end, Hayag sprayed my lips with microcyn, a disinfectant spray similar to hypochlorous acid, between injections during my treatment, which gave me confidence in the high level of care I was receiving.

What Are the Benefits Of Evolysse Dermal Filler?

The chemical structure of Evolysse makes it less prone to looking lumpy or creating little filler balls that people feel migrating across their faces. According to Hayag, “Evolysse is unique because it mimics skin’s natural HA and blends in more seamlessly with your skin.” She goes on to explain that whether you opt for Evolysse Form or Evolysse Smooth, you won’t get a “heavy, volumizing” look, which is especially important if you’re injecting in delicate skin areas like the lips.

Who Should Get This Treatment?

Because Evolysse is formulated to be chemically more identical to HA than other fillers, people like me who are after a more smooth, flexible, and hydrated look might want to consider giving Evolysse a try. Filler newbies can begin with Evolysse Smooth, which Hayag says “provides a softer smooth gel for delicate areas.” People looking for a more natural and subtle filler look are good candidates for this treatment.

How Much Does Evolysse Cost?

The exact cost of the filler can vary depending on your practitioner; however, it’s around $765 per syringe.

My Experience Getting Evolysse Dermal Filler

Hayag opted to inject one syringe of Evolysse Smooth, which she said was the perfect dose for a filler newbie like me. She paused the treatment after injecting 75% of the syringe, held up a mirror and asked if I wanted to stop or keep going. “If you want a more juicy look,” which I did, she suggested we use the entire syringe.

I also wanted Hayag to inject the vertical lip lines I noticed when I stare at my face in the magnifying mirror. Even though these lines are very fine, Hayag says Evolysse Smooth is an ideal dermal filler to inject into vertical lip lines, which she says, as we age “experience loss of dermal collagen and elastin, thinning and loss of subcutaneous fat.” The initial plan was to inject these as well as my lips, but the numbing cream that had been applied to my upper lip made my vertical lip lines undetectable. Hayag made the call not to inject, because there was not sufficient need. This underscores the importance of making sure you see a medical practitioner who understands anatomy to avoid looking like you have an overfilled face.

The After Care

Hayag let me know to expect swelling and bruising for up to 14 days. She was right on the mark in terms of how long it took the blue bruises to fade and the swelling to recede. She said I could ice, but it wasn’t a deal-breaker in terms of getting a different outcome, and I preferred not to because I find icing annoying and only do it when really necessary, like when I had my wisdom teeth out. She said I could come to her office for a V-beam laser treatment, which when done in the first 72 hours might lessen the bruising effect. I didn’t take her up on her offer because I didn’t really care about the bruising — anyone who asked about it, I told I had my lips injected. As for topicals, I used Summer Fridays Tinted Lip Balm in Pink Sugar with shea butter and good old Aquaphor from my first day of healing. When I wanted more coverage from the bruises, I used a dab of Tarte’s Shape Tape concealer and Huda Beauty’s Faux Filler Shiny Non-Sticky Lip Gloss, which has pumped up pigment while still keeping my healing lips plenty hydrated.

My Takeaway

This was such a gentle introduction into the world of lip filler, and not at all what I expected. As a beauty editor, I’ve heard stories of other editors who had to have their filler dissolved because they were unhappy with the so-called “trout pout” results.

Even though the swelling took 14 days to subside, I was impressed that I didn’t feel any granular balls during the healing period. In fact, after Hayag massaged my lips immediately after injecting me, I didn’t feel them at all. TBH, those would have given me the creeps, and confirmed my filler fears, so I was really excited that they were a non-issue with Evolysse Smooth.