Spicule Skin Care Is The Closest You Can Get To Microneedling At Home

With new products, brands, and categories popping up every day, beauty can be a bit overwhelming. Back to Basics is our rudimentary beauty series that serves as your crash course on the science behind some of the best formulations in the game. This week, we’re taking a look at spicules.

Some skin care ingredients have a particular “hurts so good” sensation — the slight burning that may come with a particularly strong exfoliant; the immediate chilly blast of menthol; the flush of heat from a capsaicin-laced lip plumper. It’s the undeniable, sickly sweet feeling that a product is actually working. And while skin care certainly doesn’t have to provide discomfort in order to be effective, trending K-beauty ingredient spicules do just that, with a spiky prickling effect that amplifies the efficacy of active ingredients.

As with any skin care product, particularly those that fall under the “hurts so good” category, spicules require a certain level of understanding and education to successfully incorporate into a routine. Too low a concentration could render them ineffective, while too high is basically a one-way ticket to irritation station. But find that perfect Goldilocks spicule serum, and you can essentially supercharge your skin care routine for maximized results.

Ahead, TZR breaks down the spiky, itchy, and tingle-y of it all, from what exactly spicules are and the benefits to the best spicule-spiked serums for serious results.

What Are Spicules?

According to Calgary, Canada-based double board-certified dermatologist Dr. Danny Guo, M.D., spicules are microscopic needle-like structures derived from marine sponges.

As Livingston, New Jersey-based board-certified dermatologist Dr. Deborah Spey, M.D., explains, in nature, these needles form the rigid skeleton that gives the sponge its structure. In cosmetics, they are ground into a fine powder and incorporated into serums, masks, and creams, retaining that sharp, pointed shape within the formula. Though, at 1/10th of a millimeter or smaller, they’re not visible to the human eye.

This does, however, mean you can actually feel spicules when applied to the skin — though the sensation is generally mild to moderate. Users tend to report a tingling, almost prickly sensation, Spey says, as the needles penetrate the outermost layer of the epidermis, creating thousands of tiny micro-injuries that trigger the skin’s natural wound-healing response. Make no mistake, spicules can — and may very well — cause some discomfort when applied, but keep in mind there’s a difference between discomfort and outright pain.

What Are The Benefits Of Spicules?

Spicules themselves do not have a direct benefit except a mild exfoliation, Guo explains. Unlike chemical exfoliants that dissolve dead skin cells, spicules physically dislodge and remove those cells, while simultaneously stimulating the skin beneath. Spey says this dual action has been reported to refine surface texture, minimize pore appearance, and even out complexion. Still, that exfoliation isn’t spicules’ main appeal.

Rather, their strength lies in their mechanism of action. By creating micro-channels in the skin’s barrier, spicules allow active ingredients to penetrate the stratum corneum more effectively than topical application alone can achieve. This, in turn, amplifies the efficacy — as well as the potential for irritation — of whatever topical is used in conjunction with them.

There’s also the collagen stimulation. The micro-injuries caused by spicules activate the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin. Per Spey, this translates to improved skin firmness, reduced appearance of fine lines, and a more youthful complexion over time, especially with consistent use.

It’s important to note that, given their recent introduction to the market, clinical studies on cosmetic spicule products are relatively limited. “Most of the robust data available relates to spicules as delivery vehicles,” Spey explains, "showing that they improve the skin uptake of accompanying actives, rather than isolating any standalone benefits.” That said, the wound-healing response to micro-injuries caused by spicules is a well-understood and validated principle in dermatology.

What’s The Difference Between Spicules & Microneedling?

Spicules and professional microneedling share the same basic principle: using controlled micro-injuries to stimulate collagen production and improve ingredient penetration. But that’s pretty much where the similarities end.

While spicules work at the level of the epidermis, professional microneedling devices are able to reach the dermis directly, creating a more significant wound-healing response and more substantial collagen production, Spey says. According to Guo, microneedles are around 40 times longer in depth than spicules, which are virtually undetectable by the human eye.

The difference is similar to that between a professional peel and an everyday exfoliant — one is far more affordable, superficial, and can be safely done at home, while the other requires a trained professional and comes with far more downtime post-use.

“Microneedling also has significantly more scientific evidence and a longer history of usage,” Guo says.

Who Should Use Spicules?

Per Spey, spicules are best suited for adults with normal, combination, or oily skin, particularly those who are looking to address concerns like uneven texture, dullness, fine lines, enlarged pores, or hyperpigmentation. They’re also great for those who want enhanced collagen stimulation or are looking for deeper ingredient delivery in an at-home format.

Guo says spicules can be especially beneficial to those who use multiple actives in their routine and are looking to get the most out of them.

Given their effects and potential for irritation, it may be more important to consider who shouldn’t use spicules. It’s important to remember that spicules come with a particular prickling sensation, which might not be all that appealing to some people. There are also several groups of people who should approach spicules with caution, or avoid them altogether. “People with sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, or active inflammatory skin conditions including acne should steer clear,” Spey says. In these cases, spicules will likely aggravate rather than improve issues.

Those with a compromised or damaged skin barrier, be it from over-exfoliation or environmental stress, should wait until the barrier is restored before introducing spicules. Similarly, anyone with active breakouts, open wounds, or sunburnt skin should avoid using spicules in those areas. Pregnant women should consult a dermatologist before use — Spey says the enhanced active penetration may be a consideration depending on what else is in their skin care routine.

How To Use Spicules In Your Skin Care Routine

Both Guo and Spey agree it’s best to slowly incorporate spicules into your routine, with a frequency of around one to three times per week, as tolerated. The skin will continue to build tolerance over the first four to six weeks of use, at which point some users can potentially progress to daily use, though Spey warns this isn’t necessary to see results and is not recommended for sensitive skin types.

The method and order of application is particularly important when it comes to spicules. Guo suggests applying spicule skin care after cleansing and before active ingredients. Spey recommends gently pressing spicule skin care products into clean, dry skin, rather than aggressively massaging.

This should then be followed by active ingredients, though not all actives pair well with spicules. Both dermatologists suggest avoiding using spicules with (or preceding) retinoids and chemical exfoliants, as they can further the potential for irritation. Instead, Guo suggests pairing them with ingredients like PDRN, exosomes, and stem cell extracts, while Spey recommends following spicules with vitamin C or hyaluronic acid. Moisturizer should always be applied following spicule and active application.

It’s worth noting that spicule product quality can vary considerably. The tingling and flushing that comes during application isn’t simply a sensation, it is a functional signal that the spicules are actively working. If a user doesn’t feel anything upon application, they should consider whether the product’s spicule concentration is sufficient. That said, more intense sensation does not equal better results, and significant burning or lasting redness can be signs of overuse or intolerance. Too high a concentration and the risk of irritation significantly increases. Spey says the best products clearly disclose their spicule source and concentration, and are paired thoughtfully with complementary actives.

Shop Spicule Skin Care Products

With a high spicule concentration, this serum is decidedly not for beginners. That said, that high intensity can yield some serious results. It pairs niacinamide and collagen with spicules to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of pores, while leaving skin plump and glowy.