I Traveled Over 6,000 Miles To Seoul To Get The Best K-Beauty Makeup Tips

It’s a bit of an understatement to say K-Beauty is having a moment — everywhere you turn, there’s a new Korean-based brand hitting the shelves or plastered on your FYP. That’s probably because Korean beauty is some of the most advanced in the world, with people of all genders taking their routines very seriously. But skin care tends to get the most attention, with everyone focusing intently on the masks, creams, and gadgets that will keep their faces glassy, plump, and poreless. What everyone seems to forget is that Korean makeup is just as awe-inspiring, something I learned firsthand recently while visiting Seoul.

From an emphasis on textures to formulas that infuse the skin with moisture while still managing to be insanely pigmented, Korean makeup is in a class of its own. I spoke with brand executives, a product formulator, and one very talented local makeup artist to learn what sets Korean makeup apart and the K-Beauty secrets you should add to your routine.

Learn, Live, Love Your Color Analysis

You’ve probably seen videos for color analysis on TikTok — they are all the rage in Korea and have been for some time. “About 10 years ago, personal color analysis began entering the mainstream news cycle in Korea. At first, it was advice people sought from experts, but today, even general consumers are highly knowledgeable about it,” explains Hyeon Jun Bak, managing director at iFamilySC Co. Ltd., the parent company of popular Korean cosmetics brand Rom&nd. It’s a process that involves finding the colors that are the most flattering for you based on your hair color, eye color, skin tone, and undertones. You’ll then be told what “season” you are (autumn, winter, spring, summer) and if you are cool or warm and deep/dark or light. From there, you can be guided to pick the best wardrobe, jewelry, makeup, and even hair hues that flatter your palette. Sounds gimmicky, right? Turns out, according to Sunny Koo, a local makeup artist I spoke with during my Seoul travels, it really is a big thing in Korea. “Most everyone, if you ask them, knows their colors,” says Koo. “Beauty brands also divide their shades into color analysis [when shopping], so it’s really important to know your colors because it’s easier to shop.”

According to Bak, while personal color analysis is trendy, Rom&nd sees it more as a reference point. “Rom&nd has been at the forefront of the color analysis trend in Korea and even developed a patented app called iColor. We haven’t introduced this system in the U.S. yet, but we see potential to adapt it through future offline pop-ups or online tone-filtering tools.”

I decided to field test the color analysis theory when I headed to Olive Young, Korea’s most well-known beauty store. I asked a passing sales associate if they had any of the AOU GlowyTint Balm in stock, a moisturizing lip product a friend had recommended I snag while I was in Seoul. When she shook her head no, she thought carefully for a moment, and then asked me if she could recommend something she liked better. When I told her yes, she led me to the Dasique Chewing Glow Pot, a pudding-textured lippie in a twee Jell-O mold container. I told the helpful associate that my colors — according to the extensive analysis I had professionally done the day before — were summer cool light, and without hesitation she grabbed the shades Peony Gummy and Pink Fondue, which I saw fell within my color analysis guidelines of candy and pastel pinks. When I came home and began shopping for makeup online, I noticed that almost every Korean brand has a “color chart” with spring, summer, autumn, and winter on one axis, and cool, warm, light, and deep on the other, and they will place all their shades within the chart to help you choose the right shades according to your color analysis. As Koo said, it really does make shopping for shades easier.

Soft Shades Rule

While color analysis is a guideline for Korean women to find their hues, it doesn’t necessarily mean that trends are ignored. There is a definite preference for certain shades and certain trends do emerge. “In Korea, consumers favor shades that are understated yet sophisticated — colors that feel universally flattering,” says Bak. “We believe muted tones in Korea are deeply tied to cultural aesthetics that emphasize subtlety and natural beauty. From our perspective, American consumers appreciate Rom&nd’s delicate tones and glossy finishes, but they also tend to embrace bolder, more daring shades compared to Korean consumers.”

Aiyana Sharif, global market team lead at Unleashia (another buzzy K-Beauty cosmetics brand), agrees. They’ve seen similar trends with their recent launches in both Korea and the U.S. “In Korea, the most popular soft, muted colors are rose, coral beige, and mauve pink,” she says. “They go well with a lot of different undertones and give you the ‘my skin but better’ look that everyone loves. In the U.S., on the other hand, people are more interested in bold colors like deep berries, bright reds, bronzy tones, and, of course, glitter and sparkle. I think both overlap with neutral colors, which work well in both markets. The main difference is mostly because of cultural differences. Korean shoppers like looks that are soft and well-matched, while American shoppers often like colors that make a statement.”

TikTok darling Fwee has seen some overlap between U.S. and Korean consumers since its U.S. debut, but notes that for the most part, Korean consumers tend to gravitate towards natural hues of the brand’s iconic Pudding Pot. “The current top three bestsellers in the States are Without, My, and Faded. Of these, Without and My are natural, soft pinks that are also top sellers in Korea, especially as ‘base colors’ that go with or under accent colors, while Faded is a deeper brown-toned shade that more specifically targets the autumn-toned color palettes,” says Saeyoung Geum, leader of the product development team for BENOW Inc., the company behind Fwee. “One key difference between the two markets is that while deeper, more defined shades like Faded and Ambitious are among the bestsellers in the U.S., Korean consumers tend to prefer more natural, everyday makeup. As a result, universally flattering pinks like Baby — a soft, neutral shade that anyone can wear — tend to sell better in Korea.”

But Geum notes that trends in Korea are very different from color trends in the U.S. “In the U.S., where there is a wide range of skin tones, consumers tend to value individuality and self-expression — leading to more diverse shade preferences. In contrast, Korea has a relatively narrow range of skin tones, and when one particular shade gains popularity, it often spreads quickly as people with similar complexions follow the trend. As a result, beauty styles in Korea can shift more rapidly.”

Sensorial Textures Are Fun & Functional

No one can accuse Korean makeup of not being fun. From jellies to pudding to watercolor, there are so many unique formulas, textures, and finishes to play with. And play I did — every time I came across something innovative, I had to try it. What I learned was that in addition to taking their cues from food, Korean beauty brands ensure that every product isn’t just a delight to use, but those unique textures also have a purpose.

On the trend side, Koo referenced tanghulu, the sugar-coated fruit on a skewer that was popular at street vendors, as a popular texture for lips. “We call lips that are really glossy tanghulu lips,” she says, and notes it’s achieved by applying multiple coats of clear gloss, like the Colorgram Fruity Glass Tint in Pearl Gloss, over your lip color. Because Korean formulas are both hydrating and lightweight, you get all of the shine with none of the stickiness.

As for products themselves, Fwee’s Geum points to the innovation that Korea is known for as the reason why the brand is able to deliver unique textures like the matte yet hydrating Pudding Pots and glossy and hyper-pigmented Jelly Pot. “The unique balance of color and hydration in the Jelly Pots is made possible through a special combination of skin-friendly emollients and high-refractive-index oils,” says Geum. “The emollients, which are highly compatible with the skin, help deliver and maintain long-lasting moisture. At the same time, the high-refractive-index oils enhance light reflection, boosting the shine of the product. We meticulously developed the formula to strike just the right balance between hydration and radiance — achieving a gorgeous, high-shine glow without compromising on comfort, wearability, or color payoff.”

As for the Pudding Pots, which deliver a soft and matte finish on lips and cheeks while also remaining hydrating, Geum credits that to a combination of powder with buttery hydrating ingredients such as cacao seed. “This allowed us to create a texture that feels powdery to the touch, yet remains deeply hydrating on the skin,” says Geum. “As a result, our formula offers a unique cookie-dough-like matte finish that doesn’t feel dry or settle into fine lines and creases — something that sets it apart from other products on the market.”

Lightweight Lashes With A Curl

I had heard that Korean mascaras were the final boss of mascaras, so I was looking forward to what Koo would recommend when she was doing my makeup. Before we even got to the different tubes in her kit, I watched curiously while she grabbed a wooden skewer stick and a lighter, then set the end of the stick on fire for a second and blew it out like a match. She then took the charred end of the stick and used it to press my lashes up, giving them a curl unlike any I had ever experienced with a conventional lash curler. I’m not going to lie: I’ve been too chicken to try this on my own at home, however I have attempted to replicate it by warming up a skewer with a hairdryer and it’s almost the same (but not quite as good). The heat helps shape and lift the hair into a wide-open effect. She then told me her go-to was Etude Curl Fix Mascara, a lightweight lash enhancer that creates incredible curl and separation. She explained that Korean mascaras focus on curling and creating a fluttery lash effect rather than a denser, fuller lash, like many U.S. mascaras, which try to mimic a false-lash look.

Skip The Setting Spray

Wandering the aisles of Olive Young, I saw pretty much every type of beauty solution you could imagine, but one product I didn’t see represented was setting spray. That’s because instead of layering on a heavy foundation, then setting it in place in the a.m. and expecting it to last all day, Korean women instead opt for a light, sheered-out layer of their cushion compact in the morning, which they then reapply throughout the day. “In Korea, the goal is to keep makeup looking fresh all day long instead of locking it in for hours,” says Sharif. “People use cushion compacts to touch up their makeup instead of setting sprays. These compacts let them do this without looking cakey. That's why cushion formulas are so important.”

You’ll find multiple options for your finishes, which include matte, semi-matte, and glowy. “Matte gives skin a smooth, shine-free look,” explains Sharif. “This is great for oily skin or anyone who likes a polished look. Semi-matte gives you a natural look that lasts a long time. Glow gives you a shiny, dewy finish that looks like skin that is healthy and hydrated.” She notes that Unleashia’s Satin Wear Healthy Green Cushion Foundation, which is the brand’s semi-matte option, is the most popular in Korea, as it helps make skin look more radiant without looking heavy. Glowy is also a popular choice in Korea for those who want their skin to lean more towards the glassy effect. “In the U.S., semi-matte is the most popular because people want makeup that lasts a long time without looking flat,” she says. “Glow is also becoming more popular as people seek out makeup that has lasting skin care benefits.”

As much as I love a glowy moment, I’ll be holding on to semi-matte after talking to Rom&nd’s Bak, who told me that glass skin is slowly phasing out in Korea as a new trend takes hold: butter skin. “Recently, instead of the very shiny ‘glass skin’ look, there’s growing interest in ‘butter skin’ — a complexion that is hydrated, radiant, but softly luminous rather than overly glossy.”

Korean skin care might get all of the attention, but Korean makeup is quickly gaining fans in the U.S., especially as more brands make their debut stateside. Now’s the perfect time to learn what makes K-Beauty cosmetics so innovative and experience those unique textures and formulas for yourself. Just don’t blame me if you suddenly find your usual rotation of lipsticks boring because they don’t look like a jiggly dessert and feel like a moisturizing mask.